Corsica, the gay investigation

June 17 2014

by Laurence Ogiela / TÊTU

The island of Beauty. Although it is very close, it offers a change of scenery comparable to some far-off countries. But it is also synonymous with a desert for gays: not a single officially gay establishment on the horizon and a reputation for not being very gay-friendly. And yet, while traveling in Haute-Corse, from Calvi to Bastia, one discovers unsuspected places frequented by the community. Of course, one should not expect mass gay tourism and a wild nightlife. But the encounters in the middle of nature can be very pleasant. Be careful: discretion is always required.

in Calvi, the Palmiers bar on the Landry quay used to have a reputation as a cage for crazy women. It seems that the owner at the time organized memorable parties that attracted legionnaires from the nearby garrison. A sort of local Michou. Today, nothing like that. It is a bar-ice-cream parlour like the others with a beautiful terrace along the marina.

Philippe, 50 years old, originally from Reims, has been coming to Calvi on vacation for twenty years. "I fell in love with the region, and I recently decided to settle in the citadel. I work in several stores in Calvi and everyone knows that I am gay. In fact, I find the Corsicans here quite open-minded, and I have never felt embarrassed. I've never witnessed any homophobic behavior either, but everyone avoids effusiveness in public. Most of my Corsican friends are straight and very friendly. I have even met a gay shepherd.

Beach of Algajola © Laurence Ogiela / Têtu

Calvi is taken by storm in the summer, and if it's a little flirtatious at night behind the railroad tracks, in the "allée des Veuves", during the day everyone spreads out on the warm sand of the beaches. The Pointe de la Revellata has a rather quiet naturist beach, but to get there by car, rent a 4 x 4 or forget the vehicle deposit. Otherwise, a small train runs along the coast from Calvi to Ile-Rousse and stops at each beach. One of the friendliest and most frequented is that of Saint-Restitut, after the camp of the Legion.

Continuing towards Ile-Rousse, we come across the beach of Algajola. "The guys dredge in the rocks at the end, near a natural pool of sea water. It's not easy to get to, but there are some sort of caves to meet up in", says Antoine, originally from Ile-Rousse.

"Today, in summer, we see more and more guys holding hands, but they are tourists. It's not the same when you're from here and nobody in your family knows about it. So, to meet people, we flirt on the Internet, and we meet in small quiet places," like the paths connecting the beaches of Bodri and Ghunchettu in the town of Corbara.

Because some beaches are difficult to access by land, they are beautifully preserved. And they serve as good meeting places. One of the most beautiful is the beach of Ostriconi, at the exit of Ile-Rousse. To reach this long ribbon of white sand, it is necessary to go down a steep path to reach it, and to go at the bottom, where dunes and juniper forest reserve many surprises.

But to be satisfied with going along the coast would be to miss the essential of the Balagne: its perched villages. The mountain roads between Calvi and Ile-Rousse reveal breathtaking panoramas and postcard hamlets. Stop at Cateri, Pigna, Sant'Antonino, Speloncato...

Beach of Ostriconi © Pierre Bona

Continuing towards Bastia, we cross the splendid Agriates desert, a protected coastal area of hundreds of hectares of maquis. It hides one of the most beautiful beaches of Corsica, that of Saleccia, extremely difficult to access by land. It takes several hours of walking to get there, or a solid 4 x 4 to resist the broken tracks. But the reward is there: crystal clear water, white sand, pine forest, perfumed moorland and guaranteed tranquility. Few souls on the horizon. Besides, it is like that all along the coast of Agriates. In summer, everyone looks for his deserted cove by boat.

Beach of Saleccia © DR

The Gulf of Saint-Florent marks the border between the Agriates and the Corsican Cape. To visit the cape Corsica, you have to go up the D80 road which goes around it. a narrow strip of land with a rugged and wild coastline, it is home to beautiful fishing ports and more than thirty Genoese towers still standing. Don't miss Erbalunga, Rogliano Centuri, or Nonza and its Genoese tower that almost balances above the void.

By joining Bastia, one does not leave without having strolled in its sloping lanes. Its high houses with decrepit walls cluttered with clotheslines give it an air of Naples. Above the basin of the Old Port, the square Romieu is a place of drag, just like the beach of Marana and the marina of Toga. Who said that Corsica was a desert for gays?