Perpignan Catalan cream

May 02 2013

by Frédéric Maurice / TÊTU

No need to look for the rainbow! in Perpignan, no rainbow flag floating in the tramontane. equidistant from two hot spots, Montpellier and Barcelona, the former continental capital of the Kingdom of Majorca seems to be stuck in the closet.

The tour of the addresses of the thirtieth city of France is reduced to a sauna (L'Equateur), a bar (El Medio, with its pleasant terrace on the banks of the river) and a restaurant (L'Alpilles).able terrace on the banks of the Têt), two clubs(L'Uba in Perpignan and Le Pot Chic in Canet-en-Roussillon) and a handful of friendly shops.

Even if the big deal of the moment is the imminent inauguration of a cruising bar (Le Backstage), one wonders if this urban area of 300,000 souls would not escape the statistics attributing at least 7% of gays to any population.

The crackling of Grindr reassures: this link between the Corbières, the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean is full of gays. "But they are discreet," concedes Pascal, 51. For this local figure nicknamed the "Mother queen of Perpignan," the former fortress city "is like its many patios: on the outside, it is rough, nonchalant, but inside, it contains treasures! "

The capital of French Catalonia is indeed not lacking in charm. So much so that, five hours from Paris by TGV, the southernmost station of our metropolises, which the painter and sculptor Salvador Dalí saw as "the cosmic center of the world", is the starting point for a destination with a guaranteed change of scenery.

For its caliente climate, its shimmering architecture, its intertwined alleys, its feverish bodegas, its picturesque gypsy quarter, its proximity to Spain and the charming town of Collioure, its naturist beach of Bocal-du-Tech at its seven-time French rugby champions, its wonderful photojournalism festival in September and the ease with which the Perpignanese (often handsome guys) engage in conversation.

So, of course, "it's not a good idea to hold your boyfriend's hand or to snog him in public," warns Jean-Marc, 39, a lifelong Perpignan. But this is also true for straight people. It's an open city, but steeped in tradition. "

Our selection of addresses

The most committed
Life LGBT 66
52, rue du Maréchal-Foch.
Founded three years ago, the association presided over by Stéphane Lossilla not only fights against discrimination by multiplying militant initiatives, but also animates Perpignan's gay life by organizing all sorts of events not to be missed. Its website is the reference gay portal.

The most bodega
Le Figuier
7, rue du Figuier, 04 68 63 14 82
On a lovely square where the heart of the old town seems to beat, the quintessential Spanish bodega. Tables under fig trees, slates full of tapas, glasses that never stop toasting, great bursts of laughter and staff who welcome you like at home.

The most cheerful
La Table
5, rue de la Poissonnerie, 04 68 28 53 21
In one of the alleys that make the city center a labyrinth where it is so delicious to abandon oneself, a scoundrel restaurant. You come here to enjoy good and cheap food as much as to laugh at the antics of Jacques, one of the two owners who hides nothing of his culinary preferences...