Hand to hand with Corfu

May 29 2014

by Oscar Héliani / TÊTU

Corfu is first of all a cliché. A "sun destination" not too expensive for Germans or Dutch people on holiday. But in spring or autumn, you just have to take a Vespa on a stony road, and wow... you discover a sublime view of the Albanian coast!
Located off the western coast ofGreece, Corfu is not just a mass tourism destination. It even hides little corners of paradise. starting with its capital, Corfu (Kerkyra in Greek), where the contrast of architectural styles bears witness to the passage of Venetian, English and French occupants.

The Spianada, or downtown esplanade, is a perfect example of this mix. On one side of the esplanade, opulent buildings with endless arcades are strangely reminiscent of the Rue de Rivoli in Paris. On the other, a cricket field marks the passage of the English and, a little further, the maze of alleys and small squares transport you to Naples or Venice.

Isn't happiness, with a capital "B", just discovering a beautiful island, Corfu, with a beautiful boy, a local moreover? I had the chance to meet two of them, Stefanos and Spiros. The evening of my arrival, I attended a traditional dance show. I didn't know that sirtaki would have such an effect on me. Stefanos, the leader of the troupe, has a lot to do with it. Hush, you mustn't say it. I don't know Corfu yet, but I already love it. Without delay, he introduces me to his best friend, Spiros, a construction worker, who has come to applaud him. We sympathize. They offer me to show me their island. Hum... How to refuse such a proposal?

First day
I discovered on a brochure that Sissi had taken up residence in the Achilleion Palace, near the village of Gastouri. In 1891, the Empress of Austria and Queen of Hungary, who hated life at the Viennese court, chose to have this beautiful residence built on a hill overlooking the sea, about 20 kilometers from the capital.
A great admirer of Greek mythology and moved by a statue of Achilles, she dedicated the palace to him. The Greek state recovered it after the First World War to install several institutions. Today, the reception rooms and the sublime garden are open to the public.

The island Pontikonisi and the island of Vlacherna © DR

Leaving Sissi, I find Stefanos and Spiros who suggest me to go to the village of Benitses. Driving with the window open, the sweet scent of citrus fruits lining the road pleasantly tickles my nostrils. The growing interest of tourists has transformed this charming little village into a seaside resort. A paradise for water sports enthusiasts and night owls, Benitses still has its secret corners.

Before sunset, we set course for Kanoni. Between sky and sea, the blue cameo of an absolute splendor leaves me stunned. We crossed a jetty to reach the islet of Vlacherna. In addition to a very "postcard" style, the small monastery with white walls contains beautiful icons.

Opposite is Pontikonisi, "the island of mice". For 2.50 euros, a boat takes you there to visit the tiny church surrounded by abundant vegetation. If one of the island's peacocks does a cartwheel when it sees you, it's a sign that a Corfiote is courting you. Alas, none of these birds spread their tails in front of me...

It's time for the aperitif! We headed to the Liston on the main esplanade of Corfu. It is the spot to spot all the hotties of the area while sipping a coffee. it's a good look, but the discretion remains. The hunger is felt. We opt for Tripas, a typical tavern where movie stars and politicians once ate.

Second day
This morning, I decide to go to the Saint Michael and Saint George Palace. In 1821, the British built it to install their governor but at the end of the protectorate, the Greek royal family took possession of it. After a major renovation, the building now houses the Museum of Asian Art, which displays more than ten thousand silks, screens and ceramics from China, India and Japan collected by Grigorios Manos, a diplomat from Corfu.

After this immersion in the Far East, I decide to rush into the shopping streets where stalls of trinkets bloom at every corner. It is a paradise for collectors of kitsch souvenirs. A little further on, I see dilapidated facades, laundry in the windows and kids playing in the street. Finally, the real working class neighborhoods! To go back to the tourist animation, I just have to find my way to the big red bell tower of the Saint-Spyridon church. After this crowd bath, I allow myself a lunch break. Just behind the Liston, I sit at the terrace of the Rex where the locals are almost more numerous than the tourists. Good sign.

The Palace of Achilleion ©t Thomas Schoch

Spiros and Stefanos meet me for coffee and we head together to one of the two forts of the city. Not the New Fort, which is on the harbor side and serves as a base for the Greek Marines, but the Old Fort, built by the Venetians around 1550, and which is in the center of town on a promontory. My two young guides tell me that we must climb to the top without stopping. The view on the city and the eastern coast rewards, it is true, all the efforts

I then ask them which is their favorite beach. Without hesitation, they answer me in chorus: "Glyfada!" Well, let's go!

The gay beach of Mirtiotissa © Alfredo Piola

about fifteen kilometers southwest of the island, bordered by small hills of olive trees and pine trees, this sandy beach is very beautiful. The crystal clear, shallow waters are a delight to swim in, and the sunset show is breathtaking.

Taverna Glyfada is a small, unpretentious café where you can find drinks and snacks. But can you meet gay people there? Not really. in Corfu, there are three gay beaches. Almyros Beach which is located in the north of the island, more precisely in Achavari. To the south, Issos Beach, nestled on the north side of Aghios Georgios. Finally, Mirtiotissa, located on the west coast of the island, which is not really easy to reach. After the effort, the comfort. When you see the rocks and the magnificent panorama, you will understand the reasons for its success. Initially favored by nudists, Mirtiotissa has become the meeting point of the island's gay and lesbian community, and especially the rallying point for gay tourists. A magnificent site, sublime boys...

In the evening, we went for a walk towards the port, then to dance at the Villa Mercedes. It's so nice to dance under a greek olive tree, even on a David Guetta song ! The night will be long, but Stefanos and Spiros are tired. We separate to meet again the next day. in Mirtiotissa, of course!

(Photo credit top of page: Stefanos and Spiros, our two guides in Corfu © Alfredo Piola)