Delicacies and sweets of Malta

July 12 2013

by Thierry Beaurepère / TÊTU

It is the same ritual every hour, in front of the Palace of the Grand Masters of Valletta. The changing of the guard is not really spectacular, but it is worth a little stop. Just to observe with a mischievous eye the two soldiers with their virile jaws who watch the entrance, sexy as hell in their red-striped uniforms, the cap screwed on the head and the hat on the back.in the sparse audience, there is always a couple of boys who enjoy the show. Surprise ! One of the two soldiers seems to follow them with his eyes. And if this evening, we met him at the Chandelier, the gay club of the moment ?

Of course, Malta is not strictly speaking gay-friendly. It must be said that in the smallest country of the European Union, the weight of Catholicism is considerable (365 churches for 400 ,000 inhabitants !) and divorce is still prohibited. " But the archipelago has opened up in recent years, and one can live one's homosexuality without worry. We also have our gay pride ! "Frank Micaleff, director of the Chandelier and organizer of parties that bring together hundreds of clubbers every month, is pleased.

Valletta seen from the sea © Tintazul

Old stones and drunken nights
What if Malta was slowly imposing itself as an alternative to the star islands of the Mediterranean ? Entered in the imagination thanks to its famous knights, the archipelago is within reach by plane, not expensive, strategically planted between Sicily and Tunisia. Take a big pinch of the Orient, sensitive in the language with Arabic sounds, add a finger of Latin culture, sprinkle the whole with a touch of British heritage (here, we drive on the left!), and here is Valletta, ready to be tasted.

Itis from the sea that the capital is the most spectacular : kilometers of fortifications, a tangle of palaces and churches. Chased out of Jerusalem and then Rhodes, the knights of the Order of St. John, genius builders, left their mark everywhere. In rich baroque buildings, in the palace of the Grand Masters (today the president's office), in the cathedral of Saint John... Enough to satisfy the lovers of old stones, without falling into excess. Because the stroll in Valletta, which stretches over only 1.5 km, takes only a handful of hours...

It is all the more enjoyable to stroll through the streets, discovering the gallarijas, these houses decorated with Ottoman-style balconies, so typical of Malta. Women used to watch men without being seen... Today, there is no need to hide to " watch " from the terraces of Republic Square, under the eyes of the statue of Queen Victoria.

When the thermometer goes up, the cool alleys that undulate down to the sea are a refuge from the overwhelming heat. From the crowds of tourists too, who swarm the stores of Republic Street like flies drawn to honey. unless it is because of the color of the ochre stone that sublimates the buildings at sunset.

Valletta then falls asleep quietly... It is time to join the Waterfront, warehouses rehabilitated into restaurants. Or better still, the resort of Saint Julian's, a few minutes away. Its bay, sometimes built to excess, is dotted with bars and pubs, a delicious appetizer before tasting the flavors of Maltese nights in the Paceville district. A relaxed youth invades its streets and its numerous clubs (including two gay clubs) until they run out of thirst, happily drinking Cisk (the local beer). And when the heat becomes unbearable, go to the rocks of nearby Pembroke Beach, easy to spot with its ford tower ! There you can meet pretty boys in tank tops...

In the caves of Gnejna Bay...
The center of Malta is a succession of rocky hills on which quiet villages have sprung up, up to the medieval city of Mdina, first capital of the island. Nestled behind its high ramparts, it has remained authentic. And one discovers with happiness the treasures scattered in the maze of its tortuous lanes, as in a medina... To the silence of the palaces and churches, the knights added the splendor of the baroque constructions.

Gay pride in Malta © Denise Scicluna

All that is missing is a typical port to complete the picture. Here it is, in Marsaxlokk, in the south of the island. The gargotes there serve lampuka (a kind of white tuna) or squid, while dozens of luzzu yodel on the sea. These small colorful fishing boats sometimes carry tourists to Delimara Point, listed as one of the most beautiful dive sites in the Mediterranean. To the dozens of rocky coves too...

And the beaches ? They are few and far between. You have to go north, half an hour from Valletta, to lay your towel on the sand. Ghadira and Golden Bay attract families. Ghajn Tuffieha, accessible by a steep path, is more quiet. From there, a boat will take you in five minutes to the modest gay beach of Gnejna Bay. There you can sunbathe on flat rocks, before going to have fun in its caves...

Change of scenery - and island - with the Blue Lagoon. Located off the coast of tiny Comino (fifteen minutes by boat from Malta), this site has become one of the favorite playgrounds of yachtsmen. Every summer, sailboats pour in tourists by the hundreds, who dive with delight into its crystal clear waters. From there, you might as well go to Gozo, the second largest island of the archipelago.

The Blue Lagoon, off Comino © Erik1980

According to the legend, it is here that Calypso seduced Ulysses. No nymph in sight today, just bikers, all dressed in leather, boarding the ferry linking Cirkewwa, north of Malta, to Gozo. The half-hour crossing would almost be too short ! However, we will find them on the roads of the island, suitable for all kinds of excursions : on motorcycle or quad, on bicycle or even on foot. Because Gozo is very small : 14 km long. You just have to climb the citadel of its capital, Victoria, to observe its hills planted with vineyards, olive trees and orange trees that undulate to the sea, its sleepy villages, dominated by disproportionate churches rivaling those of Rome, as in Xewkija !

Azure Windowe, on the island of Gozo © Myriam Thyes

The coast is spectacular : limestone cliffs, a gigantic stone arch - the famous Azure Window - that spans the waves on the west side of the island. In short, Gozo is perfect for a break of a day or two. It's also the perfect place to stock up on local specialties such as blown glass and lace, which you'll find useful during the next gay pride event !

Find gay and gay-friendly addresses in Malta by consulting the gay guide of Malta