Bali, always friendly

Nov. 05 2013

by Laurence Ogiela / TÊTU

The island of the Gods never ceases to attract tourists. Its luxury hotels, its charming villas, its long beaches, its restaurants and its trendy bars are always crowded. Whether you come to sunbathe, surf, learn or relax, there is something for everyone. With its lush vegetation, tropical climate, tolerant people and refined lifestyle, Bali has always attracted travelers, including many gays.

In the south of the island, between the temples of Pura Luhur Uluwatu and Pura Tanah Lot (photo) dedicated to the gods of the sea, lies the most beautiful part of the Balinese coast. The most touristic too. From the Bukit peninsula to Canggu, there are breathtaking cliffs, chic or relaxed beaches, authentic or westernized atmospheres.

If the best time of the year to visit Bali is from May to November, prefer spring and autumn, because the island is literally taken over during the summer months.

A tropical paradise during the day, the beaches of southern Bali become a party temple at night. Every night, people dance to the latest international hits mixed by famous DJs. This part of the island has seen its tourism and hotel development explode in recent years. And it must be said that in some places the rule that we do not build higher than a palm tree has been largely flouted ...

Jimbaran beach © Slivester Nuenenorl cor Bounifeuisc

If some surfers show off dream bodies to make the gods crazy with jealousy, you should avoid like the plague Kuta, their favorite seaside resort. It is invaded by young Australians who drink the local beer, the Bintang. But you can indulge your passion for surfing in Jimbaran, Legian, or Seminyak without leaving your sense of aesthetics behind. Long crescent of fine sand, Jimbaran is one of the most beautiful beaches of southern Balinese and has the best seafood restaurants on the island.

As for Seminyak, it is the place to be to enjoy the warm Balinese nights. Like all villages on the island, Seminyak is made up of winding streets and alleys. But here, they are lined with stores, restaurants, bars and trendy clubs, out of price for the locals.

There are also a few exclusively gay bars in Seminyak, lined up next to each other along Jalan Dhyana Pura. The Mixwell, the Face Bar, the Bali Joe, the Bird Cage and the Bottom's Up are mainly frequented by the local gay community and come alive from 11 pm when the waria, transvestites equivalent to Thai lady boys, harangue the tourists. Drag shows, election of Mister Gay Bali, go-gos in underwear: you can find the same ingredients as in any gay bar, but in a Balinese version. You'll meet kupuk kupuk malam, moths that are often cute and a bit effeminate. If a handsome guy offers you cikicik (pronounced "tchiki-tchik")... say yes and go out covered.

Unlike the rest of Indonesia, the predominant religion in Bali is not Islam, but Hinduism. This explains in part the fact that the Balinese are extremely tolerant and don't mind homosexuality or seeing two men holding hands in the street. Besides, physical contact between people of the same sex is a common practice in Asia, which does not necessarily mean that they are gay.

Evening at Mixwell, in Seminyak

The Balinese gays meet on the beach of Collego, quite frequented the weekend. Tourists and expatriates rather flirt in the trendy beach clubs: potato Head, with its 1950s Palm Spring decor, attracts all the hype thanks to its cutting-edge programs such as Fat Boy Slim or Justice; Mozaic, a little off-center, is a gastronomic beach club like its eponymous restaurant.finally, Ku De Ta, precursor of the trendy Balinese beach clubs, remains in the picture even if it is seriously competed by the others. We also show up at the very glam Rock Bar of the Ayana hotel and the SOS Supperclub of the Anantara hotel, which also program very good DJs.

But Bali is more than just a party enclave. If you are looking for authenticity, you can explore a number of places that have not yet been touched by the tourist industry. The west, the north and the east of the island also align beaches and temples, rice fields and volcanoes as far as the eye can see...